Alaskan Adventures

We just returned from Alaska, a trip of a lifetime.  I am in awe of this beautiful, massive state and all the unique wonders and experiences it has to offer.  I think it requires an extended period of travel to truly experience a change of perspective and renewed sense of self, and I'm so appreciative to have had two full weeks away from home to broaden my horizons.  We traveled between Anchorage, Denali, Seward, Juneau, and through the inside passage to Vancouver, and despite all of our many adventures and excursions I still feel as though we only experienced a very tiny piece of Alaska.

Our trip started in Anchorage, where we explored the city and learned a bit about its history.  We stayed at the Lakefront Anchorage, located on Lake Hood, which happens to be the busiest seaplane base in the world.  The rugged, lodge-style hotel is also conveniently located near the airport.  During our time in Anchorage we took a long walk along the coastal trail, ate salmon and reindeer meat quesadillas at the weekend market, and enjoyed tasty food and drinks at the 49th State Brewery.  (King crab legs are certainly something to behold.)  Anchorage was a smaller city than I had expected, but there was also a lot of cultural diversity in its residents and visitors.  I love finding independent bookstores when I visit new cities, and one of my favorite discoveries in Anchorage was The Writer's Block bookstore and cafe, a trendy shop with a creative menu and good book recommendations.  From Anchorage we took the Gray Line Luxury Dome train to Denali.  What an enjoyable way to travel!  The train was spacious and relaxing, with gorgeous views of the scenery and wildlife.  We saw moose and bald eagles and learned a lot about Alaskan history and animals from the tour guide.  Ady loved her time on the choo-choo train!  

Looking for otters and seaplanes on Lake Hood

Tony Knowles Coastal Trail

Fun at the weekend market

The town of Denali and its six million acre national park was as awe-inspiring and vast as I had envisioned.  We stayed in town at the Denali Park Village, a cozy and inviting collection of cabins and lodges with a camp-like atmosphere including bonfires, live outdoor music, dining areas, and an ice cream shop.  Moose frequently wander around near the village, and Ady and I saw a mama moose and her baby walking down the road one evening.  Denali National Park and Preserve is home to hundreds of species of animals and birds, and most of the park is not accessible by private vehicle.  On our first full day we hiked the Horseshoe Lake Trail, explored the visitor center, and took a trip to the dog sled kennels, where we met the hard-working Alaskan Huskies who keep the park operating year-round.  On Day 2 we rode a transit bus deeper into the park in hopes of seeing North America's tallest mountain, Denali, at 20,310 feet.  The day was overcast but we held out hope for clear skies, and while we were snapping pictures at the Eielsen Visitor Center the clouds parted just enough for us to see the peak of the mountain in the distance.  Along the way we had the opportunity to see grizzly bears, dahl sheep, caribou, and lots of birds.  

Denali Park Village

Jaycob, Ady and my mom hiking Horseshoe Lake

A glimpse of Denali's peak through the clouds

Caribou in the park

Another view of Denali the next day on the dome train

While Denali may not typically be a toddler-friendly or kid-focused travel destination, I am all about incorporating kids into adventures and experiences we love rather than putting plans on hold while raising kids.  We did a lot of research on tips for traveling in Denali with kids and we found this really useful resource: Denali with Kids travel guide, which has trip-planning tips, overviews of the hiking trails, packing lists, safety tips, and more.  We discovered that Denali is a memorable destination for all ages and activity levels, as long as one plans ahead.  

Things to pack when doing Denali with kids: layers of clothes for a wide range of weather conditions, car seat for the transit bus (required by law), plenty of stickers and books to entertain, binoculars, sunscreen and bug spray. 

Ady on the grizzly statue outside the visitor center

We spent three nights in Denali, but I can see how people could spend a whole week there with all the hikes and sight-seeing the park has to offer!  After Denali we enjoyed the dome train back to Anchorage, then on to Seward to begin the next phase of our trip, the cruise.  We departed from Seward on the day of the summer solstice, enjoying almost 20 hours of daylight.  Our cruise was the 7-night Southbound and Hubbard Glacier through Royal Caribbean.  We chose this particular cruise option for a number of reasons, and we were excited about the one-way option with five port days and lots of opportunities for shore excursions.  

Here's a summary of our cruise itinerary:

Day 1: Depart from Seward after lunch near the harbor and a stroll around the town

Day 2: Cruising: With a full day of cruising we had the opportunity to explore the ship, find the restaurants and shops and activities on board, and admire the views from the deck.  Starting in the afternoon we passed through Hubbard Glacier ("The Galloping Glacier"), the largest tidewater glacier in North America, with a 400-ft face and spanning 76 miles.  It's truly spectacular to see and hear the iceberg calving!  We also spotted harbor seals on the icebergs around the glacier.  

Day 3: Juneau: Alaska's capital is a quaint costal city that is not accessible by road, and with almost as many bald eagles as people, we spotted dozens of these majestic birds all over the city.  After a short hike to view the Mendenhall Glacier, we went on a whale-watching excursion.  It was incredibly informative and we got to see four humpback whales, plus seals and otters!

Day 4: Skagway: Skagway was formed as an outpost during the gold rush and was known as the "Gateway to the Klondike."  With lots of historical building, fascinating stories, and fun excursions, this was my favorite coastal town along our cruise route.  We spent the morning at a dog sled camp, where we rode in carts pulled by the dog sled teams, held the newborn husky puppies, and learned about the famous Iditarod race.  Ady was enamored with the tiny puppies!  In the afternoon we took a ride along the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, an impressive and scenic train ride through the mountains.

Day 5: Icy Strait Point: This port near the town of Hoonah has close ties with the Alaskan Native community as well as profound respect for its large population of brown bears.  At this destination we enjoyed an early morning kayaking trip through the bay and around the nearby islands.

Day 6: Ketchikan: We had a free day to explore this historical town, which is not only the salmon capital of the world but also features more totem poles than anywhere else in the world.  We went on a self-guided walking tour, visited the Totem Heritage Center, sampled smoked salmon, and perused the gift shops.

Day 7: Cruising: On our final day of the cruise we enjoyed time on the ship as we passed through British Columbia's inside passage.  We saw whales and dolphins swimming alongside the ship, admired the scenery of Vancouver Island, and enjoyed some entertaining on-board activities. 

Day 8:  Cruise concludes in Vancouver, B.C., where we spent the day exploring the city, roaming around Stanley Park, and eating lunch and dinner in the historic and trendy Gastown.  

Cruising

Hubbard Glacier

Seals and a bald eagle in Juneau

The tail (or fluke) of a humpback whale

Whale-watching in Juneau

White Pass and Yukon Route train ride in Skagway

Ketchikan

Visiting Alaska, and Denali in particular, made the world feel incredibly large.  I think there's a lot of value in feeling small and insignificant in the huge, awe-inspiring world.  Simultaneously, though, I felt a connection to the space and to the people on this journey alongside me.  Another valuable part of traveling, especially to far-away destinations or among individuals from many other countries, is the opportunity to see oneself from others' point of view.  I returned from our journey feeling renewed and with new perspectives on my priorities.  If you're saying to yourself, I hope to see Alaska someday, go!  Book your trip and check something big off your bucket list, while the natural beauty of the forests and glaciers are still there.